The final style from our AW24 collection is our take on a traditional, typical French piece of clothing, the BWJ-03 FRENCH WORKWEAR JACKET in a new Japanese 11 oz. worker blue moleskin fabric.

BLEU DE TRAVAIL

At the heart of the traditional French workwear lies the classic workwear jacket, also known as ‘bleu de travail’. This timeless blue jacket has transcended its role as a tool for laborers to join the ranks of wardrobe staples like the white tee, blue jeans, and leather jacket. Its simplicity makes it a piece that resists the fast pace of seasonal fashion trends.

The French workwear jacket emerged during the industrial Revolution, a time when the line between work and home blurred less as society shifted from agrarian to industrial labor. The growing demands of factory work necessitated clothing that was sturdy, functional, and cost-effective.

Originally, workers had to buy their own workwear, creating a non-uniform look among the labor force. However soon, factories started supplying their employees with a workwear standard, which led to the emergence of a new industry: workwear manufacturers.

Eventually, the French workwear jacket was standardized by workwear manufacturer Adolphe Lafont, in the 19^th century. This unlined jacket, crafted from durable cotton moleskin, featured a rounded collar, multiple functional pockets, and reinforced stitching to withstand heavy use. Designed for practicality, it became a staple for French workers and a symbol of the nation's industrial progress. This specific jacket style is what inspired us to create the BWJ-03 FRENCH WORKWEAR JACKET.

WORKER BLUE

Interestingly, the iconic blue tone of the French workwear jacket was not its original color. Early workwear was typically dark gray or black, as blue dye was expensive, derived from sources like indigo and woad. This made blue a color only accessible for the elite.

The discovery of Prussian blue in the early 18th century changed this. This affordable synthetic dye revolutionized the textile industry and became widely used for military, naval, and police uniforms -- and eventually industrial workwear. By the late 19th century, advancements in dye technology, like hydron blue, made blue garments even more economical and resilient, cementing their place in the wardrobe of the working class.

The jacket’s evolution mirrors the industrial revolution, representing the shift from agrarian to industrial labor. The term ‘worker blue’ ties directly to the term ‘blue-collar’, which itself evokes the durable, practical attire worn by generations of laborers. However, it doesn’t just serve as functional workwear -- it’s a living testament to the hard work, resilience, and craftsmanship of blue-collar workers. Even today, the French workwear jacket serves as a reminder of the dignity of manual work and the enduring influence of the working class on fashion, culture, and identity.

MOLESKIN

The French workwear jacket owes much of its durability and reputation to moleskin, a densely woven cotton fabric with exceptional strength and versatility. Moleskin is characterized by its tightly packed threads and brushed surface, giving it a soft, suede-like texture.

Moleskin was prized by workers for its practicality: windproof, water-resistant to some degree, but also resistant to wear and tear. It was particularly valued in farming and welding, where its tight weave protected against animal hair and sparks. Moleskin fabrics hold up remarkably well, making vintage French workwear jackets in acceptable conditions still widely available today.

Our version of this classic fabric is woven by Collect Mills in Japan, weighing a hefty 11 oz. per square yard. Compared to typical denim weights, it doesn’t sound that impressive, but the compact construction makes this moleskin fabric a very sturdy and hand-wearing piece of cloth.