It’s been seven years since our European Made line was launched through the means of crowdfunding. From there on we kept building the collection, adding more and more styles each season. Even though the size of this first collection was only a fraction of what we’re offering now, it consisted of two jeans that we still carry to this day: B-01 SLIM and B-02 REGULAR. While the pattern of B-01 SLIM has been updated along the way, we never touched the B-02 REGULAR’s pattern*, as it remained relevant throughout the years. There simply wasn’t any reason for altering it. Never change a winning team they say.

Although B-02 STRAIGHT has been a consistent force in our EU line, it’s total offering never reached that of any the other cuts... until now. As part of our AW23 collection, we’re expanding the B-02 STRAIGHT lineup with three familiar fabrics: 13 oz. brown cotton selvedge, 15.5 oz. Kojima selvedge, and 15.5 oz. RCI selvedge.

*The only minor change made to the B-02 has been its name, as it was changed from REGULAR to STRAIGHT. With the introduction of B-03 TAPERED, and that fit also having a regular top block, we decided to focus on the different in hem opening and incorporate that in their names: straight vs. tapered.


Picture by The Rugged Society (https://theruggedsociety.com/)

 

THE FIT

The B-02 STRAIGHT is inspired by a classic 1940s straight silhouette. We’ve modernised the fit with a shaped top block. This brings the jeans closer to a contemporary cut, still paying homage to its roots. Although the cut has a high rise, the B-02 STRAIGHT grants plenty of room throughout and allows for additional movement in the top block.

Even though these types of fits find their origin in jeans from 70+ years ago, they can be worn in different ways, depending on the wearer’s style and preferences. This makes the B-02 STRAIGHT a super versatile cut.

A classic way would be to keep its original hem (by not cutting the legs) and turn up any of the excess length. Then, style it with a pair of boots and western or work shirt. Maybe even throw in a Cattleman (classic cowboy hat), if you’ll catch my drift.

Conversely, a more contemporary approach would be to hem the jeans to the correct length (or even slightly shorter). This modern way of wearing the jeans will give the fit a more laidback effect overall. Style it with a sweatshirt and pair of sneakers to finish the look.

 


THE FABRICS

Up till previous season, the B-02 STRAIGHT was only available in two fabrics, 13 oz. indigo eco selvedge, and 15 oz. vintage indigo selvedge (special #2). With the release of AW23, three additional fabrics are being added to the lineup.

13 oz. brown cotton selvedge

Instead of the regular (off) white colour, the weft of 13 oz. brown cotton selvedge is dyed brown. This will help to create a so-called dirt effect when worn in. This also makes the outside of the fabric appear to be a bit darker which contributes towards characterful high contrasting fades. With 13 oz. it’s the lightest addition to the lineup. The denim is woven by Candiani in Italy.


15.5 oz. Kojima selvedge

The name of 15.5 oz Kojima selvedge derives from its place of inception. It's a traditional red cast Japanese denim woven at a low tension for extra comfort and breathability. This fabric has a high fading potential; over time the denim will mature into a bright blue hue with indigo nuances. The construction is slubby and uneven. This adds a subtle element of depth to the fabric and contributes to the unique evolution of the denim. It has been the first Japanese fabric ever used in our European made line and is woven by Collect Mills.


15.5 oz. RCI selvedge

Just like the previous fabric, the name of the 15.5 oz. RCI selvedge comes from its place of inception, namely Robecchetto con Induno, the hometown of Candiani Denim. It’s a classic red cast Italian denim woven with less tension creating an uneven structure that will become more apparent with wear and wash. The fabric has a high fading potential, typically found in these vintage-inspired denim constructions. It can be considered as the Italian counterpart of our 15.5 oz. Kojima selvedge. The cotton used for this fabric is 100% organic and is woven by Candiani.


With the other two fabrics recently being restocked, the B-02 STRAIGHT is now available in our five most popular core fabrics from the EU line. Just like the other fits, we intend to restock these regularly, when necessary. Whether your into a classic denim look, or are leaning more towards a contemporary take, B-02 STRAIGHT could be the basis of both looks.

August 30, 2023