We’ve just released the first drop of our AW23 collection. To kick off our series of blogs and product reviews, we’re excited to introduce a captivating denim concept: 14 oz. easy fade LHT selvedge. This innovative fabric has been woven for us by Candiani Denim in Italy and is currently available in B-01 SLIM. Additionally, it will also be made accesible in B-04 RELAXED, set to be released in September.

In this blog post, we will delve into the intricate details of this fabric. We will explore its unique qualities, provide technical insights into the reasons behind its easy fading nature, and explain the concept of a left hand twill. Notably, Lennaert has been extensively wearing his sample pair for approximately three months, allowing us to showcase the evolving fade progression as well.


This fabric is officially known as the 14 oz. easy fade LHT selvedge, with 'LHT' indicating 'left hand twill'. Although the RHT (right hand twill) weave is the most common method in denim production, there are also alternative weaving methods to create denim fabric. Examples include BT (broken twill) and, as seen here, LHT (left hand twill).

A twill fabric is recognized by the presence of diagonal lines that are visible on the fabric's surface. This effect is achieved by passing a group of warp yarns (often indigo-dyed in the case of denim) over and under one or more weft yarns (typically undyed or ecru).

The most prevalent twill pattern found in denim fabrics is the 3x1 construction. In this pattern, each warp yarn crosses over three weft yarns and then goes under one. The subsequent warp yarn follows the same sequence but shifts one step higher or lower. A technical illustration of the three most frequently used twill patterns is presented below for reference.

However, aside from the noticeable visual distinctions, why does the weaving direction of the twill hold significance?

This question is quite common, and while we won't delve too deeply into it now (that's a topic for another blog), here's what you should understand at this moment. Fabrics with a LHT weave tend to develop a softer texture over time due to wear and washing. This characteristic is linked to the manner in which the yarns are spun—prior to the weaving stage in the fabric manufacturing process. These yarns are twisted clockwise, which is known as a Z-twist, in contrast to the S-twist. The image illustrates the distinction between the S-twist and Z-twist.

By opposing the Z-twist direction of the yarn with the S-twist direction of the twill (notice that the LHT pattern follows the S direction in its design), the ends of the fibres that are spun together to create the yarn, are gently exposed due to these opposing forces. This results in a softer touch compared to denim fabrics that are woven with a corresponding yarn and twill direction.

In an upcoming blog, we will dive much deeper into the technicalities of these and other twills (like the broken twill, but also chambray and sateen twills), so if you plan to expand your denim knowledge, be sure to watch out for it.

Image source: https://www.schoolofsweetgeorgia.com/


In addition to its less conventional weave, another distinctive quality of this fabric is its propensity to fade relatively easily. One of the main attractions of raw denim lies in its ability to shape itself perfectly around your body over time, creating a pair of jeans with varying intensities of indigo that form a unique pattern unique to you alone. Nonetheless, achieving this effect demands patience and commitment, particularly when it comes to achieving a brighter fabric hue. This is precisely why pre-washed jeans tend to find broader popularity; many people simply don’t want to wait and invest time and effort into the process.

Enter 14 oz. easy fade LHT selvedge.

To avoid any confusion, our intention is not trying to cut corners here. This fabric still demands considerable care, effort, and dedication to achieve fading, but we’ve made things slightly easier for once. With that said, let's delve into the technical explanation behind this recent development.

The warp yarns have been dyed by Candiani using a method in which a great portion of the yarn's core remains untouched, keeping the indigo confined to the surface. In simpler terms, this means that wearers will require less time to reveal the white core, thereby shortening the duration needed for wearing and fading.

Candiani has trademarked this technique Indigo Juice®, drawing a parallel to the way indigo is absorbed akin to a juice. Furthermore, this innovation results in a reduction of up to 15% in energy consumption and up to 15% in water usage during the denim dyeing process, making this a more sustainable option too. And by the way, did we mention that its yarns are made from 100% organic cotton?

The close-up image displays two yarns: one dyed with regular indigo at the top, and another dyed with Indigo Juice® at the bottom. Notably, the latter exhibits a clearly defined white core when untwisted.

Interestingly, Indigo Juice® was initially developed to shorten the duration of factory pre-washing and destressing of jeans, thereby reducing the environmental impact. However, for raw denim enthusiasts like us, we’ve discovered an ideal application as well. This is particularly beneficial if you're unable to wear jeans daily due to office commitments or if you're new to this scene and desire quicker outcomes before delving into more intricate aspects of raw denim. In both cases, the easy fade concept presents an optimal solution.

Lennaert has been wearing a sample pair of B-04 RELAXED’s for about three months now. The accompanying images showcase not only well-formed creases but also a noticable brightening of the overall color. This latter effect, especially, would typically require considerably more time with most fabrics.

The 14 oz. easy fade LHT selvedge is our first new fabric as part of the AW23 collection. It brings a lot of comfort through the means of its construction, while also providing quick fading results when worn without washing. This type of denim can be an ideal option for anyone with less time or seeking quicker results, as well as newcomers dipping their toes into the rabbit hole of denim and indigo, or anyone else looking for a new and interesting concept to try out. 

The 14 oz. easy fade LHT selvedge is now available in B-01 SLIM & B-04 RELAXED.

August 25, 2023